Trotro Life

To have a fascinating cultural experience aboard a trotro, you don't even have to go anywhere. The hour we spent waiting for our trotro to leave Kaneshi Station for Winneba was excruciating, but provided a steady stream of entertainment, better than any movie... just too bad we didn't have any popcorn. Oh wait, there's a lady outside the window selling some! Perfect, now let's sit back and enjoy the show!

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The Black Panter Boxing Gym

Soccer has a strong tradition in Ghana, but boxing is the sport in which it most excels. This small country has produced a number of champions, and legions of kids attend class in boxing gyms around Jamestown, hoping to become the next Azumah Nelson or Jospeh Clottey. We had the chance to check out one of the training sessions at the Black Panter Boxing Gym, in Jamestown. We were received warmly by the head coach of the…

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Crazy Nights in Osu

We hadn't been too impressed during our initial excursion in Osu, Accra's most popular nightlife spot. But that was because we had limited ourselves to Oxford Street. The moment you step off that main drag, the annoyances vanish, revealing an enjoyable neighborhood with plenty of options for fun.

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The National Museum of Ghana

We were excited to learn that Ghana's National Museum was located just minutes away from our house. But our actual visit turned out to be a disappointment. The museum was under renovation, and apparently has been for years. The tour guides said that it would be re-opening in grand fashion later this year, perhaps even July. But that's a ridiculously optimistic prediction at best, and most likely a lie. This place looks closed for good.

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Osu Castle

Built by the Danes in 1661 as Fort Christiansborg, Osu Castle has long been at the center of Ghana's commercial and political life. From within these white walls, foreign powers have ruled, slaves have been traded, and presidents have lived. We took an excellent tour of the grounds, learning a lot about Ghana's history in the process.

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An Incident at Black Star Square

Accra might live and breathe in neighborhoods like Adabraka and Osu, but its monumental heart is at Black Star Gate. We were standing in the shadow of this gate when, just meters away, an accident occurred that will play a starring role in our nightmares for years to come.

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Ghana Food Journal, Part I

In nearly every place we visit, the cuisine makes up an integral part of our experience. There's a lot to be said for visiting the monuments, learning the history, and meeting the people, but I almost feel like we understand a place best through its food. So feed us, Ghana! We want to know you...

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The Jamestown Gbekebii School

As agreed upon with Emmanuel after our weekend tour of Jamestown, we showed up on Wednesday afternoon at the doors of the Jamestown Gbekebii school, ready to meet the kids. Well, at least we thought we were ready. From the moment we stepped inside, we were swarmed by dozens of children and their curious, grabby little hands. It was unlike anything we've ever experienced. The school is a project of necessity. From what we gathered, the community of fisherman…

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Oxford Street

Considering how often we've heard it mentioned as the most entertaining street in central Accra, where many of its best bars and restaurants are congregated, we had high hopes for Oxford Street. But expectations are duplicitous beasts. Set them low, you'll usually be pleasantly surprised. Set them high, and well... Anyway, let's take a tour of Oxford Street.

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La Beach

La Beach is Accra's main spot for fun in the sun. We visited on a Sunday afternoon, when the beach is at its busiest, and discovered a scene of such surreal energy, that we couldn't help but have a blast. Come and tour La Beach with us! It's gonna be a party.

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A Tour of Jamestown

Normally, it's good to stick to your principles. But there are times when the correct course of action is to take stock of a situation, and bend accordingly. This happens more often than usual when you're in a foreign country. And when you're traveling in Africa, it's practically the only way to get along. Today, we violated our sacred practice of ignoring bothersome local "guides" ... and it was the best decision we could have made.

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Our Arrival in Accra

Ghana's capital city, Accra, is a sprawling, chaotic metropolis of 2.27 million souls. Actually, let's make that 2.27 million and two, because for the next month, Jürgen and I will be calling it home, as well. We arrived on a sweltering afternoon in late January, tired from a long journey, but eager to get out there and start making some first impressions.

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