For 91 Days in Ghana

Adventures, anecdotes and advice from three months exploring Ghana

For 91 Days we lived in Ghana. Over the course of three months, we saw as much of the country as we could, from Elmina in the south to Bolgatanga in the north, and dozens of sites in between. We spent long periods in Accra and Kumasi, got to meet the locals, enjoyed Ghanian cuisine, and saw tons of wildlife.
Whether you're planning your own journey to Ghana, or just interested in seeing what makes it such a special country, our articles and photographs should help you out.

Elmina and the Gold Coast

After being "discovered" by the European colonial powers in the late 15th century, it didn't take long for the coastline of present-day Ghana to become highly coveted property... there's a reason they called it the "Gold" Coast, and nobody wanted to miss out on the early plundering. The Portuguese were first on the scene, establishing Elmina Castle in 1482 to swap their goods for the abundant precious metals of West Africa. But other forts would follow, as would other Europeans ... and other, less-honorable forms of trade.

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Anas: Ghana’s Anonymous Watchdog

Anas Aremeyaw Anas is an award-winning journalist who has dedicated himself to exposing the rampant corruption and malfeasance which has plagued his country for so long. Using hidden cameras, a team of dedicated investigators, and an impenetrable anonymity, Anas has "named and shamed" some of Ghana's most powerful people. The only time he's ever shown his face was in an interview with the BBC -- and it was later revealed that he had been wearing prosthetics, even for this unveiling.

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The Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary

It was difficult to depart from the Mole National Park after two days. But it wasn't impossible. We knew that our time with Ghana's wildlife was not yet finished. In fact, our very next excursion would bring us into even closer contact with the animals of Ghana: a visit to the Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary, where monkeys live in absolute harmony with the community.

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Mole Safari #2: In a Jeep

We woke up bright and early on our second day in the Mole National Park, Ghana's largest protected wildlife refuge, and moved from the Mole Motel to the Zaina Lodge: an upgrade of at least a few stars. We had booked a jeep safari in the very early morning; a time at which we hoped the animals of the park would be at their most active. We certainly wouldn't be, so it was nice to sit in the vehicle and let our driver do all the work.

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A Foot Safari at the Mole National Park

Ghana is not blessed with the expansive savannahs of nations like Tanzania or South Africa, and you won't find families of gorillas hiding in its jungles, like you might in Rwanda or Uganda. But this is still a large African nation, and as such, there's plenty of amazing wildlife to be seen. The biggest and best of Ghana's numerous national parks is Mole, which occupies a sizable 5000 square kilometer chunk of the country's northwest. We spent two nights in the park.

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The Larabanga Mud Mosque

A fascinating structure purported to be the oldest in Ghana, the famous mud mosque of Larabanga dates back to the 14th century. As it was right along our path to the Mole National Park, we couldn't avoid paying a visit. But although the mosque itself was incredible, this was one of the most irritating experiences we had in Ghana.

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How to Get Around in Ghana

Having explored Ghana from south to north and back again, we completed dozens of long- and medium-length journeys, as well as innumerable short inter-city trips. In doing so, we've run the gamut of transportation options in Ghana. Here are our tips and advice for getting around the country.

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The Tengzug Hills

To arrive at Tengzug, we arranged a private driver from Bolga Station. Although it'd be possible to get here with shared transport, this would take a long time and require a transfer in the town of Tongo -- and on this extremely hot Sunday, we had no patience for such an undertaking. So we had paid a guy take us straight to the village's gate, and wait until we were done; it was money well spent, and we'd encourage others to do the same. (Just make sure to haggle!)

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What Happens in the Town of Bongo? You Get One Guess!

You don't have to be an expert in Ghanaian culture to guess that the town of Bongo is known for drumming. Just outside the village, you'll find a formation of giant rocks, which are known for the bizarre, musical tones they produce when struck. We embarked on a hike to this natural orchestra pit, and found ourselves amazed by the area's beauty even more than the famous rocks.

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